Discover Georgia: A Standout Destination on Lonely Planet's 2018 Best in Travel List

Lonely Planet Pathfinder Timothy Cohen has just wrapped up a three-week journey across Georgia — featured on our Best in Travel 2018 list — hiking through the Caucasus mountains and soaking up the energy of Tbilisi, the nation's vibrant capital.

I spent the last three weeks exploring Georgia, and it completely blew past every hope I had. From the snow-blanketed summits of the Caucasus to the sun-baked vineyards and sweeping plains of Kakheti, on through the lively streets of Tbilisi and the sleek coastal hub of Batumi, this country delivers at every turn.

None of that would matter, though, without the warmth of the Georgian people. Their generosity is legendary — strangers regularly pull you into a family home for a glass of homemade wine and a plate of incredible food. There's no better moment to discover this overlooked gem before the crowds catch on.

The Vibrant Streets of Tbilisi

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I touched down in Tbilisi, a city built on contrasts, where weathered historic structures sit shoulder to shoulder with daring modern design. The old quarter has held onto its old-world feel — a fortress, steaming sulphur baths, heritage architecture, and a maze of narrow lanes curling around every block.

Where Georgia and Azerbaijan Meet

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Davit Gareja ranks among Georgia's most jaw-dropping heritage sites, and its character stands out in more ways than one. Perched right on the Azerbaijani frontier, carved into a dramatic cliff face, and set against a moonscape-like backdrop, this monastery complex felt like stepping onto another planet.

With the international boundary cutting straight through, Azerbaijani border guards regularly patrol the area, so I had to watch my step constantly. Hiking along the ridgeline, you get a sweeping panorama — Georgia's lowlands stretching out to the left, Azerbaijan's to the right.

A Sanctuary Above the Clouds

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Forget Ed Sheeran's Castle on the Hill — this one blows it away. Tucked deep inside the Kazbegi district sits what might be Georgia's most iconic landmark: Tsminda Sameba Church. Perched at 2200m, the church towers above the town of Kazbegi, ringed on every side by the towering peaks of the Greater Caucasus. As dusk falls, the final golden shafts of light glide across the wind-worn stone walls, taking the whole scene to another level.

Echoes of South Ossetia

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While most travellers are drawn to Kazbegi and its alpine scenery, I opted to venture into Truso Valley, dotted with the crumbling ruins of long-abandoned South Ossetian villages. Time has stood still here, though a handful of farming families still call it home. A few dwellings remain upright alongside relics from centuries past. The tiny settlement of Abano sits deep within the valley — the final outpost before the South Ossetian border, just 2km further on. Only a small group of residents remain, including a few nuns.

The Sentinel Towers of Svaneti

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High in the mountains of Svaneti stand the koshi. These ancient watchtowers, constructed between the 9th and 13th centuries, define the region's skyline and have become its defining symbol. Around 175 of them still dot the various villages today. Mestia is the area's lone town, and it buzzes with activity during summer. From the top of one of those towers, the region's serenity and beauty feel completely untouched — especially right after the rain.

Europe's Loftiest Continuously Lived-In Village

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The village of Ushguli feels cut off from the world, breathtakingly picturesque, and nestled at the base of Georgia's tallest peak — Mount Shkhara (5201m). Time appears to have passed this place by, along with its roughly 200 residents. Horses roam free across the valley here, used for gathering harvests and as transport for the locals. The route from Mestia is long, winding, and rough — skip breakfast before tackling it… But the payoff when Ushguli finally comes into view is unbeatable: the mighty snow-capped Shkhara looming over a village packed with centuries-old Svan towers!

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