Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens now anchors a dedicated retrospective at MoMu, the fashion institution based in Antwerp, Belgium.
Titled She Walks in Beauty, the display traces twenty years of Theyskens' artistic transformation, his technical artistry, and the evolving moods reflected in his collections.
Visitors encounter the shadowy romanticism of his earliest pieces that catapulted him to international recognition, followed by the couture philosophy he introduced at Rochas, his command of fabric and tailoring during his Nina Ricci tenure, his stateside venture with Theyskens' Theory, and the rebirth of his eponymous label—every silhouette on display carrying his unmistakable signature.
"Considering how frequently major fashion houses rotate their creative leaders, Olivier's journey stands out as particularly compelling," Kaat Debo, MoMu's director, shared with Vogue. "Now forty, he launched his career at twenty, meaning he has already dedicated half his life to the fashion world. This allows us to trace his development from his original label and observe his signature DNA woven through every chapter."
The presentation unfolds somewhere between a runway and a fashion editorial, with iconic pieces displayed on understated mannequins. Recordings of his catwalk presentations, along with photographic documentation, further illuminate his narrative, while a curated selection of his hand-rendered sketches and illustrations highlights his extraordinary artistic abilities.
She Walks in Beauty runs through April 15; further details are accessible here.
