A few years ago, we visited Brooklyn Boulders in NYC and had such a blast that we stayed for six hours—double our usual gym time. When we later moved to New York, finding an apartment near the gym became our top priority. Now, it's practically our second home. It's hard to believe it's been three years since we started climbing in San Diego. Since we relocate annually and travel extensively, we've visited countless climbing gyms and met diverse climbers. This week, we compiled hacks, tips, and tricks gathered from others over the years, plus fresh insights from Garrett, the head setter at Brooklyn Boulders. We hope these help you progress faster on your climbing journey.
15 Ingenious Rock Climbing Hacks, Tips, Tricks, and Proper Gym Etiquette
CLIMBING HACKS
1. Funky Shoes
Depending on the person and shoe type, climbing shoes can develop a strong odor from moisture. My own shoes are pretty rank because I'm constantly nervous and sweating. The best way to combat stinky shoes is to remove them between climbs and dry them promptly after your session. Some climbers use a hairdryer to eliminate moisture, then add cedar chips, baking soda, baby powder, or Gold Bond powder inside.
Does anyone else have these shoes?
When they get unbearable, I scrub them down with laundry detergent and a toothbrush.
2. Shower in Your Shoes or It’s Hammer Time
Explaining how climbing shoes should fit can be tricky, but think of them like ballet shoes: you want a slight curl and the ability to stand on your toes. In other words, they should be uncomfortable but not painful. If your toes are crossing or curling under, go up a size. Once you have the right shoes, breaking them in helps. Wearing them at the gym works, but these hacks speed up the process:
- Shower with them! Several climbers told us this when we started. Warm water helps stretch the shoes. Just let them dry completely before climbing.
- 15 on 15 off. Bring your shoes to the office and wear them for 15 minutes, then take your heel out for 15 minutes. Repeat a few times.
- Hit them with a hammer. Bend the shoes in half and tap along the sole to break in the leather. This tip comes from the lead setter at Brooklyn Boulders—I'd never heard it before.
We just got new shoes too! Esther has the La Sportiva Tarantulace and Jacob has the La Sportiva Finale.
3. Chalk Your Arm
Some boulderers skip waist chalk bags and use a large bucket on the mat. If you sweat as much as I do, chalk dissolves halfway up the climb. Another climber suggested putting extra chalk on your forearms so you can easily transfer it to your hands when needed. Plus, if you're scared of heights, it's less daunting than reaching behind for your bag.
4. Take Care of Your Hands
Climbing puts heavy stress on your hands, especially in unusual places. You'll often see climbers taping fingers or wrists to protect beat-up skin or torn calluses. We recommend chatting with other climbers to learn different taping methods. Using an ointment after climbing also speeds healing—we use Metolius Hand Repair Balm after every session.
Most importantly, know when to rest. More on that later.
5. Climbing Jeans for Spontaneous Trips to the Gym
We usually wear standard workout clothes, but this year we discovered Boulder Jeans. They're great for everyday wear—you never know when you'll want a spontaneous gym trip (we've been going almost daily!). They're comfortable, stretchy, and chalk wipes off easily. Plus, huge pockets make them perfect for travel. Check them out!
ROCK CLIMBING ETIQUETTE
As you start climbing at the gym, knowing proper etiquette helps, especially when it's busy. Here are basic rules:
6. Don’t be a Spraylord
A big part of climbing is solving each problem. Don't shout beta at people without being asked (if you're new to the term, check out basic climbing vocab). It's like spoiling a movie ending. If you want to help someone struggling, ask if they'd like beta first. For more ways you might be a Spraylord, read this hilarious list—we admit to some of them.
7. To spot or not to spot.
Spotting is common outdoors, but opinions vary indoors. Only spot if asked and you know how to do it properly; otherwise, you risk causing more injury. For example, if I anticipate a fall in a certain spot, I might land a specific way knowing the mat is there. If someone suddenly tries to spot me, either of us could get hurt. You can also ask for a spot!
8. Brush Your Holds
People often brush holds while working on a problem, but it's also courteous to brush them afterward so the next climber has clean grips (especially if you over-chalk). Think of it like wiping down gym equipment after use. It's not universal, but it's polite.
Also, if you sweat a lot, please wipe the holds! A few weeks ago, I was working a climb when my hands slipped off a seemingly good hold. Looking down, they were covered in gray sludge—chalk mixed with someone else's sweat.
9. Be Aware and Mindful of Others
This is a common mistake for new climbers. Even when the gym is crowded, they'll attempt a move repeatedly without noticing the queue waiting for the same or adjacent problem. Generally, try once or twice, then step back and let others have a turn.
If someone is on a problem and looks close to finishing, let them complete it before you start working your beta. You might break their flow.
10. Stand Away from the Walls and Keep Your Bottles and Bags in Check.
Always be aware of where people are climbing and where they might fall. Stay clear of those zones.
We've seen people hurt themselves by landing on water bottles or tripping over chalk bags (a friend in Portland experienced this). Keep your gear clear of landing areas.
TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR ROCK CLIMBING TECHNIQUE
11. Try Something Different if You’re Plateauing
Climbing can get frustrating when progress stalls. For instance, you might flash all V3s but can't start most V4s. When you hit a plateau, don't obsess over the rating ladder. Focusing too much on the next grade can discourage you and hinder improvement. Instead, change what you're doing: try different climb types (slopers vs. crimps, overhung vs. slab, top rope vs. bouldering), or play climbing games and exercises.
12. Know When to Rest
If your fingers feel sore or fatigued from certain problems, mix in different styles. Climbing always carries injury risk, especially if you push too far beyond your ability. Jacob recently hurt a finger, and most climbers advised resting to avoid a more serious injury. (Though many struggle to follow that advice and later regret it—including our doctor friend who climbs.)
Depending on the injury's severity, you don't have to stop climbing entirely. For example, when Jacob hurt his left hand, he did easier climbs using only his right hand and focused on footwork and positioning.
As always, stay hydrated and stretch. If injured, consult a doctor. For more on climbing injuries, this book is a great resource.
13. Top Rope Will Help You Work on Stamina
You might love bouldering more than rope climbing, but it's sprint vs. marathon. We found bouldering improves technique, but it doesn't build stamina as much. If bouldering intimidates you, start on ropes—knowing the rope catches you makes it less soul-crushing.
14. Try a Climbing Comp
Most gyms host competitions for all skill levels. We haven't entered one yet but plan to this year. It's a unique experience where everyone tries the same climbs for the first time.
15. Make Friends
One of the best parts of climbing is workshopping problems with others. It's fascinating to see different approaches to the same problem. We now have a small group of climbing friends we hang out with both in and out of the gym—all started by working on a bouldering problem together.
Have you ever tried climbing or bouldering? Any additional hacks to share?
If you're ever in NYC, come climb with us at Brooklyn Boulders Queensbridge! We're there practically every day.
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ESTHER + JACOB
Esther and Jacob are the founders of Local Adventurer, a top 50 travel blog worldwide. They believe adventure can be found both near and far and aim to inspire local exploration. They move to a new city each year and are currently based in NYC.
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