There are certain brands so deeply woven into my routine that I rarely stop to review them anymore. I take them for granted and assume everyone else does too. My Beauty Diary, the very first brand I ever covered on this blog, is one I often overlook. I’ve gone through countless boxes of these Taiwanese sheet masks without saying much. But I finally came across a version interesting enough to write about, so here are my thoughts on the My Beauty Diary Duo Brightening Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Mask.
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MBD’s packaging has evolved significantly since the days when pixelated box graphics sparked widespread “is this fake?” panic.
My Beauty Diary Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Mask Review
I picked up a box of these masks at a physical AB store late last year, the same day I bought that Skin Aqua sunscreen while out with Beauty and the Cat‘s Angela and Renee.
Purpose: My Beauty Diary Duo Brightening Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Mask (I’ll call it the Black Pearl EX+ Mask from now on) promises to deliver intense brightness and deep hydration to the skin.
Best suited for: All skin types.
Do not use if: You are sensitive to glycols, triethanolamine, citrus extracts, or any other ingredient listed.
When and how to use: Apply after toner, essence, and serum steps in your skincare routine. (Curious why I use sheet masks so late? Read this.) Remove the mask from its pouch. Unfold and peel off the plastic backing. Place it on your face, smoothing it down so the material lies flat. Leave on for 20–30 minutes, or longer if you like. After removing, pat any leftover essence into your skin and follow with moisturizer or a sleeping pack.
I used to read traditional Chinese fluently, but I’m out of practice now. Deciphering the packaging was a fun challenge.
My Beauty Diary Duo Brightening Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Mask ingredients: Water, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, chlorphenesin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, triethanolamine, hydroxyethyl urea, arnica montana flower extract, acer saccharum (sugar maple) extract, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) fruit extract, citrus medica limonum (lemon) fruit extract, saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract, polyglycerin-3, sodium lactate, sodium hyaluronate, citric acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, xanthan gum, algae extract, polysorbate 20, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed pearl, hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, codium tomentosum extract, glyceryl glucoside, glycosphingolipids, crypthecodinium cohnii extract, polyglutamic acid, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, carbomer, fragrance, lecithin, polysorbate 80, tocopheryl acetate, arbutin, sea salt
CosDNA analysis
Ingredient notes: As with most sheet masks, the bulk of the essence is water and humectants that trap moisture on your skin and help it retain hydration. The more exotic ingredients listed later are present in much smaller amounts.
That said, My Beauty Diary is known for crafting effective mask formulas, so those other ingredients are worth examining.
Among the extracts, the star in the Black Pearl EX+ masks is glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract. This is one of the most studied plant extracts in cosmetics, valued for its skin-brightening, hyperpigmentation-reducing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. My skin responds well to it. I actually stopped using Missha’s Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence because they removed licorice root extract. I’m a big fan.
The Black Pearl EX+ masks also include orange and lemon fruit extracts. I doubt there’s enough of either to have a significant effect (beyond triggering allergies or sensitivities), but I mention them to clarify the difference between extracts and using actual fruit juices on your face. Never apply citrus juices directly to skin—they’re too acidic, sensitizing, and can cause phytophotodermatitis with sun exposure. Extracts are a different matter; I’ve never had issues with citrus extracts in skincare. As noted, they’re likely heavily diluted, so take that as you will.
The packaging boasts 98% pure crypthecodinium cohnii extract, which was a pain to type but fun to research. Crypthecodinium cohnii is a “dinoflagellate” microalgae. “Dinoflagellate” might sound like a T-rex with a punishment fetish, but it actually refers to a single-celled organism with two tiny whip-like arms. That’s irrelevant, but isn’t the idea of a T-rex with a fetish kind of cute?
Speaking of dinosaurs, does Gong Yoo look like a dinosaur to you too?
Anyway, crypthecodinium cohnii is a “prolific producer” of the essential fatty acid DHA, which may offer protective, anti-inflammatory, reparative, and moisturizing benefits when applied topically. Using this plankton extract seems like a roundabout way to include DHA, but it may also provide other antioxidant and hydrating perks. Don’t expect the extract to make up 98% of the mask’s total volume, though. That percentage refers to the concentration of crypthecodinium cohnii within the extract ingredient itself. The other 2% is likely water, and the extract is probably present at a very low level in the overall essence. Confusing packaging claims, as usual.
Performance
Like MBD’s 2015 and later releases, the Black Pearl EX+ masks use a thin, translucent, flexible material that’s far less intimidating than the thicker pre-2015 version. Despite its thinness, the sheet holds a ton of liquid, as expected from MBD.
These are among the easiest masks to wear while checking the mail—barely noticeable from a distance.
They don’t cling as tightly as some other ultra-thin T-beauty masks. They’re not stiff, but I get some bunching and shifting, especially around my chin, where I need to fold them up a bit. They also sit lower on my forehead than I’d like. My forehead is vast, so I can’t blame the brand, but I always wish MBD masks were roomier.
Like nearly every T-beauty mask except Lovemore’s, the My Beauty Diary Black Pearl EX+ masks stay wet on my face for 45 minutes to an hour. This is due to the amount of liquid, the sheet material’s holding capacity, and the essence formulation. I’ve used other masks that started just as wet but dried out much faster.
The advantage of this slow evaporation is that more essence seems to end up in my skin. Wearing them for longer also maximizes absorption and effects. No, not all 23ml of product gets absorbed (that would be absurd and terrifying), but a substantial amount does compared to other sheet masks. I can tell from the results.
The main outcome is intensely hydrated skin. Insanely hydrated. It’s the kind of plump, bouncy skin AB fans love—upper layers so full of moisture that skin takes on a milky translucence from all the water beneath. It’s skin that seems to drink in light and reflect it back as a soft inner glow, not just a shiny surface. Luminous.
Nearly all MBD masks I’ve tried deliver that ultra-hydrated, lit-from-within effect, but the Black Pearl EX+ masks take it further, and the results last longer. My skin looks and feels so happy even the next evening that I usually skip sheet masking the night after using one. Surface texture stays smooth, and the extra bounce lingers.
However, despite the “Black Pearl” name, these masks don’t provide the same brightening effect as the regular (and cheaper per mask) Black Pearl Brightening* version. The regular ones brighten so much that I get a visible line on my forehead where the mask ends. The Black Pearl EX+ masks don’t. Instead, their brightening comes almost entirely from reducing redness. They even out skin tone and soothe irritation but don’t change actual skin color, even temporarily. Whether this is a plus or minus depends on your goals, but it’s a notable difference from the regular Black Pearl flavor.
While I love shopping—especially with good friends—the physical store markup on these masks would have made me hesitate if they weren’t MBD. Fortunately, I know MBD’s consistent quality well enough to risk it. I’m glad I did—these masks gave me great results. I’d happily use more.
Conclusions
My Beauty Diary masks rarely let me down. The Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Masks follow the expected pattern: above-average comfort and excellent results at a reasonable price. Their hydrating effects stand out, and the calming, redness-reducing benefits seal the deal. They cost more per mask than standard MBD flavors but delivered more intensive benefits for me too.
Rating: 4.5
Rating scale:
- Should be removed from the market, or failed at its primary job.
- Caused issues; wouldn’t buy again.
- Meh. Neither great nor bad.
- Pretty good, does what it claims.
- Freaking amazing.
Where can I buy My Beauty Diary Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Mask?
MBD masks are available at many brick-and-mortar Asian beauty stores and supermarkets in major cities. The Moisture Power Brightening Black Pearl EX+ Mask is also sold in boxes of 6 on Amazon Prime*.
READ No Oncologist Will Tell You The Truth About Essential Oils
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