First, I must offer an apology for the headline above—it's a bit cheesy, I know, but I simply couldn't resist. However, my journey to one of France's most glamorous coastal towns, Saint-Tropez, was far from cheesy. In fact, it stood out as a major highlight while sailing the Mediterranean with Viking Ocean Cruises, and I suspect my experience in this quaint locale was quite unlike that of most travelers. Visiting the south of France in December offers a stark contrast to the summer season, and not solely due to the climate. Arriving just a week before Christmas, we encountered a tranquil seaside village devoid of the throngs of tourists that flock to the Côte d'Azur in July and August. Consequently, we got to witness the authentic essence of Saint-Tropez and its neighboring areas, gaining a deeper appreciation for why this region of France is so cherished by millions globally.
Exploring the Area
One aspect I've always admired about Viking River Cruises is the inclusion of a guided tour at every stop. This is a significant advantage that few other companies offer, and it's thrilling that they extend this benefit to their ocean voyages as well. Sometimes I joined these tours; other times I ventured off on my own. However, I was particularly glad I opted for the tour when visiting Saint-Tropez. Bundled up against the chilly breeze from the water, even in December, it was clear why Saint-Tropez has drawn the rich and famous for decades. So, what exactly is there to do in Saint-Tropez? The simple answer is enjoying the nearby beaches and boating—neither of which seemed appealing while wearing a hat, gloves, and scarf. Though beautiful, I also understood why the city essentially shuts down in winter, making me doubly grateful for the Viking excursion that morning. Guided by a local resident, we learned about the town's impressive and extensive history, as well as its most notable sights. I also relished the chance to ask the guide questions, preparing for some solo exploration later. Viking excels for many reasons, but their included tours stand out due to their comprehensiveness. These aren't throwaway excursions; they are as well-rounded as any paid activity, and in Saint-Tropez, that included a trip to the nearby town of Port Grimaud, another haven for the affluent.
Walking into Port Grimaud, it's easy to be captivated by the brightly colored buildings and canals that instantly evoke Venice. This seaside town is a favorite among boat owners due to easy water access, but it has a surprising quirk: it's a planned community built in the 1960s. Designed to look much older, the Venetian influences were intentional, and even without the patina of age, Port Grimaud is a delightful place to visit, even on a quiet morning. Reflecting on that day and this free excursion, it truly amazes me that visits to both towns were included for all passengers—a fantastic way to explore more of the French Riviera. Yet, this was only the start of my day, and I was eager to discover what has drawn visitors to Saint-Tropez for so long.
Glamorous Discoveries
When I think of Saint-Tropez, I envision warm, breezy summers, painters sketching scenes by the water, amused French authors twirling their mustaches, and glamorous individuals in dark sunglasses moving from place to place, anxious to avoid paparazzi flashbulbs. It might be like that in summer—I'm not sure—but one thing I knew for certain was that I wouldn't run into Brigitte Bardot while strolling the city streets in mid-December. Like most towns, the weeks before Christmas are more for locals than tourists, which actually gave me the best chance to learn about the real city. This is one of the many reasons I love visiting Europe in December; I feel like I'm observing a more authentic version of certain destinations, especially tourist hotspots, and Saint-Tropez was no exception. However, it was early morning, I was cold, and coffee wasn't just a desire—it was a necessity. Fortunately, I could combine sightseeing with a chocolate croissant at one of France's most legendary cafes, Café Sénéquier.
First opening its doors along the port in the 1880s, the café has always been bustling, thanks largely to its pastries and famous nougat dessert. Before World War II, it attracted a fashionable clientele, and after the war, the entire port was rebuilt to its former glory. During those years, Sénéquier once again began welcoming the world to its brightly colored café. Soon, Hollywood stars and wealthy hangers-on enjoyed morning coffees and late-evening drinks there, making it one of the most photographed and renowned cafes in France, and likely the world. Still family-owned, tradition is paramount at Sénéquier, and I was excited for my own star-studded dining experience. While it may not have been as glamorous as I'd hoped, their pastries are indeed amazing, and the flaky chocolate croissant was among the best I've ever had—and I've enjoyed quite a few in my life. It was the perfect start to an afternoon of walking, exploring, and, of course, eating more food.
I'm glad I visited in winter for another reason: I'm not glamorous enough to mingle with the summer crowd. While I always try to look presentable, the truth is I can't compete with that, and I rarely buy anything expensive or fashionable. It's just not in my nature, so being bundled up in a coat and hat was the perfect way to explore the town without worrying about fitting in. It's silly and certainly not mature, but that's who I am. With that happy anonymity, I began to veer away from the colorful port into the city itself. Most shops and businesses were closed; signs in French all read the same: "Closed for the season." No matter—most were high-end boutiques, and I didn't need a new pair of heels. Fashion clearly dominates in Saint-Tropez, and even a fashion-resistant troglodyte like myself couldn't help but be amazed by the beauty of some notable houses, including the stunning Dior flagship building in the town center. Exuding pure elegance, it apparently features a fine-dining restaurant in summer, no doubt a popular spot for the Real Housewives of Saint-Tropez. Wandering further into the center, I finally found what I was looking for: the main square. All towns have one, and it's from this public space that I usually like to explore new places. Due to the morning hour, though, it too was nearly empty. The many trees dotting the park were bare in the cold December wind, and even the Christmas market was shuttered, awaiting nightfall to welcome children of all ages for some holiday fun.
Reading through this post, I'm starting to worry that I'm not painting a great picture of what is truly a beautiful little town. I thoroughly enjoyed my day in Saint-Tropez, learning about its history, walking its streets, and consuming its delicious food. Despite my fashion-backward style, I'd like to visit in summer too, if only to compare and contrast the differences. But I'm very thankful to have visited for the first time in winter, when I had the town to myself and could explore every nook and cranny without the scrum of tourists getting in the way. I ended my day at a local bistro, happy to enjoy some French food and pass the time as the locals do—slowly eating, chatting, and just enjoying life. France is one of my true travel loves and always will be. It was the first country outside the US I ever visited, French was my first foreign language learned, and the people and culture are very dear to me. To have that day there, to enjoy life the way I know Tropéziens do, was priceless. That's also one of the great aspects of cruising that I love: the ability to swoop in and enjoy local life easily, comfortably, and enjoyably.
The post Navigating the Charm of Saint-Tropez in Winter appeared first on LandLopers.
