The spring of 2020 confined millions at once, bringing unfamiliar terms like 'pandemic' and 'lockdown' into daily conversation. Nothing will return to its previous shape, yet no one can reliably predict what comes next. Travel, entertainment, and apparel all stand to absorb punishing losses. Specialists at McKinsey and The Business of Fashion are forecasting a contraction rivaling the depths of the Second World War. Does that signal the end of splurging on formal gowns? Or could we see an eruption of pleasure-seeking consumption reminiscent of the 1920s? Which houses will endure, and what becomes of the seemingly infinite parade of runway shows? Might a more sincere, accessible, and honest chapter of fashion be unfolding? I reviewed expert assessments and drafted my own outlook on where the industry heads once the crisis passes.
What awaits the fashion world following the coronavirus crisis
Face coverings evolve into a wardrobe staple
The mask surfaced during the outbreak as both a practical safeguard and a quiet gesture of consideration toward those around us. Across numerous nations, well-constructed filtered masks have largely sold out; basic and DIY versions offer limited protection to the wearer but can curb transmission. Given that masks will remain part of daily life for months ahead, it came as no surprise when industry heavyweights like Louis Vuitton and Zara launched their own production lines. For now the effort reads as charity, but leather versions stamped with house logos are expected to reach stores, soon to be joined by embellished designs featuring crystals, pearls, ribbons, and ruffled trim. By summer, matching earring shades to one's mask will likely become routine, while lipstick purchases may decline further.
Apr 17, 2020 at 9:41 am PDT
Mar 11, 2020 @ 8:09 am PDT
The luxury sector braces for an unprecedented slump
On reopening day in Guangzhou, the Hermès boutique reportedly pulled in roughly $3 million — a new benchmark for luxury retail within China. The episode should be read as an outlier, however: affluent shoppers in the country's wealthiest province simply released pent-up demand, eagerly snapping up pieces from one of the most prestigious and recognizable luxury maisons. The same fortune does not await Hermès' competitors — Bain & Co. analysts project a contraction of up to 40% across the luxury sector. Economic headwinds will inevitably erode consumer spending power, and designer apparel, footwear, and accessories rank far from essential purchases.
Mid-range labels face comparable strain, as households pare back discretionary spending to the bare minimum — bags for some, dresses for others, jewelry for a few.
Apr 11, 2020 at 9:00 PDT
Apr 14, 2020 @ 7:06 am PDT
Runway presentations migrate to the digital sphere
Budget tightening is unavoidable across the apparel world. The fate of this summer's cruise collection shows remains unclear. The Council of Fashion Designers of America has officially scrapped June runway events in New York and urged European houses to follow suit. The British Fashion Council responded by merging menswear and womenswear presentations onto a single gender-neutral platform converted to a digital broadcast. A parallel shift from Italian designers is widely anticipated. Open questions remain: in what format will upcoming haute couture collections be unveiled during fashion week, and might conventional runway shows return by September? In an open letter, Giorgio Armani counseled dramatic reductions in seasonal output and urged the industry to "slow down" — guidance worth heeding.
Apr 17, 2020 @ 8:42 am PDT
Apr 17, 2020 @ 8:18 am PDT
Editorial photography shifts online — or simply operates on a tighter budget
Editorial shoots once demanded an acclaimed photographer, a celebrated face, a glossy publication's dedicated stylist, plus vehicles, premium accommodations, and closure of Parisian boulevards for the occasion. The pandemic has revealed that a single model armed with a smartphone can produce equally compelling content — the garments themselves remain the focal point, not the spectacle surrounding them. Marc Jacobs, for instance, invited staff to submit at-home snapshots wearing his pieces and to highlight preferred items from his collections. Browsing the Instagram hashtag Working From Home Fits proves that any one of us can step into the role of model.
Apr 6, 2020 at 6:53 am PDT
Apr 14, 2020 at 5:10 PDT
Glossy publications pivot from fashion coverage toward real-world reporting
Fashion journalism has progressively distanced itself from trend-imposed mandates over recent years, embracing what some call personal taste autonomy. Within this more permissive landscape, trends no longer function as rigid commandments along the lines of "pencil skirts reign this season — relegate everything else to the back of the closet." Reporters increasingly highlight the appeal of new releases through lived experience rather than prescriptive do's and don'ts. A magazine offering nothing beyond fashion content also diminishes its reader appeal, since audiences crave coverage of broader cultural and societal developments alongside clothing and cosmetics. Notably, the glossies are responding to the moment: April and May covers demonstrate a growing willingness among publications to spotlight environmental and social matters, no longer treating the pandemic and its accompanying turmoil as off-limits subjects for a supposedly glamorous readership.
Mar 25, 2020 at 5:24 am PDT
Apr 20, 2020 at 8:46 PDT
Featured image on unsplash.com
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