Reflecting on 2017, three brands formed a powerful trio that seemed to steer the entire fashion scene: Gucci once again commanded the luxury segment, Mango claimed the hipster high-street territory, and Ganni stood firm as the contemporary label that churned out more coveted pieces than one could count. Remarkably, it did all this without becoming overexposed, inflating prices due to demand, or conforming to rigid runway conventions. This Danish brand consistently defied expectations, delivering an astonishingly diverse lineup of cult favorites within a single year.
The Who What Wear UK team has closely tracked Ganni's meteoric ascent. Now, with the announcement that a major private equity firm is making a strategic investment to fuel global expansion, we set out to uncover the brand's formula for success. I sat down with the duo behind the label—creative director Ditte Reffstrup and CEO Nicolaj Reffstrup—to get the inside story. Read on for the full scoop on Ganni.
Chances are you can spot Ganni from a distance. Maybe you already own one—or several—of their pieces. You might even follow the #GanniGirls hashtag as obsessively as we do. But how familiar are you with the brand's origins? It may come as a surprise that the label began back in 2009, and in a completely different form. 'I don't think you could call it a brand back then,' says Nicolaj. 'A friend of ours who owned a gallery was making clothes here and there, and I suspect it was mostly based on his personal tastes rather than a structured collection—so it was a bit random.' Ditte began collaborating with him, helping to define a style, designing shoes, and soon became very successful for him. 'That's when we started to join the company,' he adds.
For Ditte, this was an opportunity to finally produce the garments that many stylish Copenhagen women—herself included—felt were lacking. 'I see Ganni as a very Scandinavian, very Copenhagen brand—effortless, laid-back, and cool. People often picture Scandinavian style as either ultra-premium or androgynous, but I didn't identify with either, which is why I wanted to start Ganni,' she explains. So Ditte began crafting a signature blend of mixed prints and sporty-meets-feminine proportions, which have since become the DNA of this trendsetting Danish label.
Emili Sindlev, Lisa Aiken, Diletta Bonaiuti, and Emma Rose Thatcher spotted in Ganni's polka-dot designs.
The iconic 'Yellow' T-shirt from the spring/summer 2016 collection.
The mohair Julliard sweater from Ganni, seen on Elsa Hosk, Marie Hindkaer-Wolthers, Laura Jackson, and Camille Charrière.
Ganni's Charron check patterns on Lucy Williams, Sofie Valkiers, Adwoa Aboah, Jeanette Madsen, and Emili Sindlev.
Ganni's unconventional floral prints have also been street-style favorites in various iterations.
The now-iconic fuzzy sweater.
Best paired with flats or sneakers for maximum cool.
In stock. Selling fast.
Our deputy editor recently purchased this piece.
A playful nod to our shopping obsession...
Party pants that transition to the office with a white blouse.
It has returned—but don't expect it to linger.
Perfect for those who avoid traditional biker jackets.
Style it in winter with tights, boots, and a chunky sweater.
These unconventional cowboy boots are quickly becoming popular. Coming up next: the major street style trends of 2018. Opening image credit: Instagram/@hannastefannson
Net-a-Porter alone has placed ten major re-orders of Ganni merchandise this year, quadrupling its initial investment since first stocking the brand for autumn/winter 2016. A comparable pattern emerged at another key retailer, Brownsfashion.com. The London boutique also began carrying the Scandinavian label that same season, spurred by the Instagram buzz around a deceptively simple £60 T-shirt featuring a banana graphic and the word 'YELLOW' in bold capitals across the chest. 'Their fruit-printed T-shirts were a clear sign of the brand's popularity—they sold out instantly,' says Jennifer Bishop, womenswear buyer at Brownsfashion.com.
Ditte agrees that this collection marked a pivotal moment. 'I put that T-shirt on a girl who had never walked a runway before. She had never even left Sweden! I found her at a modeling agency—she was the only bald, shaved-head girl I could find—so she took the train from Malmö to Copenhagen. I styled her in the T-shirt with a beautiful lace skirt and sneakers, and even though we had big names like Nadja Bender, everyone went crazy for this girl.' Nicolaj quickly adds, and I have to concur: 'It was really the outfit!'
While 2017 saw countless stylish women embrace Ganni at full throttle, the brand's inner circle had been enamored much earlier. The #GanniGirls hashtag first appeared on social media in 2012, when Kate Bosworth and Helena Christensen used it on a joint selfie wearing Ganni. 'We noticed that hashtag and have been using it ever since,' says Ditte. 'It resonated deeply with a lot of people.' And so a tagging phenomenon was born—how many other labels can claim a similar movement?
Even with early A-list supporters like Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Rihanna, what truly excites Nicolaj and Ditte is seeing everyday women choose, wear, and share their Ganni pieces. 'I love seeing people in Ganni—I can tell it feels natural for them, that they're out living their lives, that it's fine to wear sneakers with a long floral dress… When I see people in Ganni, I feel proud and happy, and I think they look cool,' says Ditte. She explains that the team often reposts pictures of women in their clothes, not based on follower count or perceived influence, but because they embody the 'right Ganni girl.'
'Ganni has undeniably built a loyal and prominent tribe—fashion editors, influencers, and street style stars all wear and love the brand. It enjoys enormous visibility, spotted on countless cool women,' says Bishop. 'The strong influencer following is a true testament to the product itself—these women genuinely want to be #GanniGirls, and that authenticity stands out in an era where influencer collaborations often feel forced.'
As Copenhagen Fashion Week drew an international audience a few seasons ago, key industry figures quickly identified Ganni as the label to export. 'I remember the first show—the Tennis show. I had no idea what to expect, I was so nervous. I'm always nervous before a show, and that hasn't changed. But I recall Justin O'Shea, then fashion director of mytheresa.com, sitting in the front row, and that was huge for us,' says Ditte. 'It was a big moment for Copenhagen Fashion Week. A national TV show interviewed him and asked his opinion—he simply said "it was epic." I'm almost tearing up again… I was so proud of us and the team, because he was a guru at the time.' Since then, Net-a-Porter, Brownsfashion.com, Liberty, and Selfridges are among the major retailers that have joined mytheresa.com.
Given the images and endorsements above—plus the many other items we've covered this year, from beaded pouch bags and platform sneakers to track pants and rainbow knits—there must be a secret formula behind Ganni's sustained success, right? 'I rely on my gut instinct, and I'm designing around the clock. After every show, I take an inspiration trip the very next day—it's a nonstop process. I never feel like I've done enough; I always strive to improve,' Ditte reveals.
But the brand's strategy also hinges on what they call 'scarcity' to generate buzz. For instance, a pair of pink shoes that had everyone excited this week was produced in just 100 pairs worldwide. Unsurprisingly, they sold out immediately. 'That shoe has a two-week lead time because it's made by a European manufacturer—we could easily reorder and restock, but we choose not to,' explains Nicolaj. 'We are very selective about our distribution. At our price point, we could probably double sales by expanding our retail network.'
Instead, the team analyzes what's selling and builds on those successes, creating variations to meet demand while ensuring each Ganni girl feels unique and satisfied with her purchase—whether she's on a tight budget splurging on one of the ultra-flattering wrap dresses (which account for the majority of retail sales) or a wealthier customer seeking constant novelty. 'We don't have a Birkin bag—a product that stays the same forever. People expect dynamism from us. We're all about newness, no doubt,' says Nicolaj. 'Rather than raising prices to approach luxury like many brands do, we prefer limited runs, tweaks, and fresh injections.'
But don't mistake this for a data-driven operation. The now-beloved mohair Julliard jumper—priced at £350, hand-knitted in Italy, and time-consuming to produce—was not an instant hit. It's a prime example of Ditte's instinct-led design approach. 'It was a design we really wanted to push through,' says Ditte. 'The first season, we sold very, very few. Then suddenly people began to appreciate it—the craftsmanship, the colors—and it turned into a commercial success. Now we produce it for every collection in different colors, and it's become a classic for us.'
Another crucial factor in Ganni's widespread appeal is the democratic management style of Ditte and Nicolaj. 'Ditte is very consensus-oriented, and the design team works in a highly dynamic way. We keep a flat hierarchy, and we're generally kind to each other and listen,' says Nicolaj. After each show, Ditte and the team go on inspiration trips to gather fresh ideas. She attributes much of their collective creativity to extensive conversation and to disconnecting from the daily routine and social media noise.
As for future plans, the gut instincts that guide this duo are steering them toward opening three stores—London and New York are currently at the top of the list, but finding the perfect location is key. Know any good real estate agents? I'd love for them to put in a good word...
