Testing skincare products is always a gamble, no matter your experience level. Some items you'll like, but not enough to make them staples. Others you'll fall in love with and never want to part from. Some are simply duds. And then there are those that make you want to tear your skin off after minimal exposure—if they haven't already done the damage for you. My recent Amazon skincare spree over the past few months has landed me one product in each of these categories. Lucky me?
In this post: Reviews of Hada Labo Gokujyun cleansing oil, Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner, Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Gel (2017 version), and Shiseido Senka Mineral Water UV Gel.
This post contains affiliate links, which enable me to receive a small commission on purchases made using those links. Affiliate links are marked with an asterisk(*). Products mentioned that were provided to me as press samples or by my day job are marked with double asterisks(**).
The Good: Hada Labo Gokujyun Cleansing Oil
Slathering oil all over your face and rubbing it in to get clean—makes total sense, right?
As counterintuitive as it may seem to newcomers, cleansing oil is a cornerstone of the AB skincare routine. Used as the first step in double cleansing, these oils are designed to break down and lift stubborn makeup and sunscreen, then emulsify when mixed with water, letting all the grime rinse off easily. “Designed to” being the operative phrase.
In reality, many cleansing oils fall short—like the Klairs Gentle Black Deep Cleansing Oil I reviewed earlier this year—and plenty of cleansing balms are equally disappointing, such as Heimish All Clean Balm, whose continued popularity baffles me. Don't you guys smell what I smell? Doesn't the chunky texture bother you?
Meanwhile, my two favorites, Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Oil EX*** and Amorepacific Treatment Cleansing Oil***, are pricey for everyday staples.
I bought a bottle of Hada Labo Gokujyun Cleansing Oil because it's affordable, and procrastination had left me desperate for a replacement for my last oil cleanser. I've generally had good luck with Hada Labo, a Japanese drugstore brand known for inexpensive skincare basics.
As much as I love luxury, I can live without it in cleansing oils. If I have to.
Here's what I look for in cleansing oils:
- Thick consistency. I dislike thin, runny oils that drip everywhere and don't coat my face properly. Thicker oils also help with my pore-shrinking routine.
- Slippery texture. I don't want to feel my skin pulling or dragging when I massage the oil in. I can drag myself just fine without external help.
- Pleasant or at least neutral scent
- Effective removal of makeup and sunscreen
- Easy emulsification and clean rinse. While second cleansers should theoretically remove any residue, I'd rather not challenge my gentle, low-pH cleansers too much.
Hada Labo Gokujyun Cleansing Oil meets almost all my criteria. With olive and jojoba oils in a synthetic ester base, it feels substantial and satisfyingly slippery, staying put if I leave it on for a few minutes and massaging in comfortably. The scent is light and vaguely spicy—not beautiful, but not strong or lingering, so it's fine.
This oil removes my makeup and sunscreen without issue. I don't typically use heavy or long-wearing makeup, so I can't vouch for its performance with extra tough products, but it easily handles my daily cosmetics, including waterproof Shiseido mascara**. As a bonus, it doesn't irritate my eyes. It does blur my vision slightly, but nearly any oil will do that. I've only stumbled to the shower with this in my eyes once, and that was entirely my fault, not the product's.
Finally, the Hada Labo Gokujyun Cleansing Oil emulsifies quickly and rinses off reasonably well. It leaves more residue than the Sulwhasoo or Amorepacific oils I mentioned, but not enough to cause issues for my second cleanser.
Did I mention it's cheap? Hada Labo also offers refill bags, making it more eco-friendly than most cleansing oils. I've refilled my bottle once already, and the bag design makes the process easy and mess-free.
I used some of this oil to remove the Amazon label from the bottle for this photo. Multipurpose!
One major downside of Hada Labo products is that an official English translation of the ingredients list doesn't seem to exist online. Luckily, awesome AB bloggers do. My friend Nourish the Skin provides an ingredients list in her review. The ingredients match those on CosDNA, and the label's elements I can read (numbers—can't render "Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate" without a "30"; the kanji for "water"; and "Na" for "sodium") align with Nourish the Skin's list.
Final verdict? It's good! I give it a 4/5 and, as noted, have already repurchased once.
Buy it:
The Great: Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner
If you've listened to the Snailcast or read blogs from anyone in the snail squad, you've probably noticed that while we don't agree on everything, we do agree on one thing: the "splash mask" concept is silly. A splash-on, rinse-off mask that claims to rival a sheet mask? HA.
A sheet mask's effects rely on extended skin contact with lots of humectants in lots of water. The occlusion from the mask sheet greatly enhances the process. A splash-on-splash-off "mask" can't compare to a good long soak in humectant-packed essence.
However, I've found a couple of toners that achieve almost sheet mask-like effects. There's the mega-plumping Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion I reviewed earlier. The combination of the Green Tea Serum Toner** and Green Tea Moisturizer** from the Whamisa by Glow Recipe collab line gives impressively bouncy skin. And then there's Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner, recommended to me by Tracy from Fanserviced-B. Tracy recently reviewed it too, and as usual, Tracy is spot on.
It gets the sparkly star of approval from both of us.
As thick as a serum but in a much larger bottle, Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner spreads easily and sinks in quickly on my normal-to-sometimes-dry skin, leaving my face softer, smoother, and so plump with hydration that it gains the dewy brightness typically associated with a good sheet mask session. The brightening effect isn't about fading pigmentation, but rather the glow that comes from ample water in the skin, combined with the toner's mild redness-reducing abilities.
The effects improve when I layer multiple applications, which I've been doing nightly since I realized I could. I don't do the full Honey Lee-originated 7 Skin Method with alternating cotton pads and palm patting, but I apply 3-4 separate layers whenever I have time. Unlike many hydrating toners that are all hydration, this one has a richness that smooths and strengthens the outer skin layers. After a couple of layers, it starts to dry sticky, but moisturizer on top solves that.
Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner ingredients: Water, butylene glycol, glycerin, betaine, dipropylene glycol, piper methysticum leaf/root/stem extract, dioscorea japonica root extract, phellinus linteus extract, arctium lappa root extract, poria cocos sclerotium extract, epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, portulaca oleracea extract, pueraria thunbergiana root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, paeonia lactiflora root extract, cnidium officinale root extract, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, amorphophallus konjac root extract, tremella fuciformis (mushroom) extract, soluble collagen, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, sodium hyaluronate, hydrogenated lecithin, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) oil, citrus limon (lemon) fruit oil, cymbopogon schoenanthus oil, citrus aurantium bergamia (bergamot) fruit oil, cymbopogon nardus (citronella) oil, geranium maculatum oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, polyquaternium-51, raffinose, 1,2-hexanediol, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, ethylhexylglycerin, cellulose gum, adenosine, disodium EDTA, glycosyl trehalose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, biosaccharide gum-1, sodium polyacrylate, PVM/MA copolymer, panthenol, lecithin, xanthan gum, folic acid, ceramide 3, cholesterol, tromethamine, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, phenoxyethanol
CosDNA analysis
There are tons of appealing ingredients in this toner, including several familiar herbal extracts. Key to my experience are likely the soluble collagen, which forms a lightweight moisturizing film; hyaluronic acid for hydration; various anti-inflammatory, soothing extracts; and, crucially, ceramides and cholesterol, which may help repair a damaged moisture barrier. I started using this toner when I was suffering from one of the sunscreens reviewed below, and I credit it with helping heal my traumatized skin.
One thing Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner does not do well is boost absorption of subsequent products, as some other toners can. Ultimately, I think its formulation is too nourishing for that role. The trade-off is easy for me, since "absorption boosting" is low on my priority list, but keep that in mind if that's what you're after.
People with sensitivity to extracts or who avoid all citrus oils should skip this toner. The citrus oils give it a lovely fresh scent but are a concern for some. Some citrus oils can cause phototoxicity when skin is exposed to sun afterward. Concentration and extraction methods influence risk, but those aren't deducible from a label. For what it's worth, I've had no ill effects. The citrus oils are far down the list, likely in tiny amounts, and may be distilled to neutralize phototoxic compounds.
Final verdict: I love this toner to the point of addiction. I reach for it before anything else and prioritize it above nearly everything. I give it 4.5/5 and will definitely repurchase.
Buy it:
The Bad: Biore Aqua Rich Watery Gel, 2017 Edition
Now that we're moving into the less beloved products, I need to rant for a moment.
Product reformulations are common in Japanese cosmetics, and I understand why. In a competitive market, reformulating a popular product with updated packaging is a lower-risk way to grab attention and boost sales than developing a new product that might flop. It makes sense.
But when a reformulation eliminates all the best features of a product, I have to ask, WHYYYYYYYYYYYY?
The white smudges on the bottle are from the white cast-causing powder in the product.
WHY?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
That's how I feel about the 2017 edition of the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Gel (and the 2017 Watery Essence too, since all my complaints apply to both).
I absolutely loved the 2015 Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence and the corresponding 2015 Watery Gel. For me, they were as close to perfect as any sunscreen I've ever tried. Mega lightweight with a true "watery" feel, zero white cast, zero greasiness, a glowy but not over-the-top dewy finish, and PA++++ UVA protection.
So how do the 2017 versions in their flashy new metallic teal packaging stack up?
They're both thicker, with a heavier skinfeel—significantly less "watery." They now have a white cast. Still PA++++, still not greasy, so that's good. But they take longer to dry down and contain a powdery element that settles to a dry matte finish instead of a glowy one. Finally, I'll repeat: They have a white cast.
THEY HAVE A WHITE CAST.
WHY.
As white casts go, Biore's isn't the worst. It's not even terribly obvious in the photo above; it's not a thick paste of solid white. But it is noticeable. Even NC10 Tracy noticed it. If an NC10 can detect a white cast, it may be unsuitable for people NC15 and above who aren't seeking a tone-up or illuminator effect. I am not seeking either, so it's unsuitable for me. I also find that the powdery white cast tends to get streaky, collect in fine lines, and pill up. I struggled to even use up the bottle on my body, since my body is tanner than my face and the white stuff gathered in creases around my elbows, knees, etc.
Why couldn't they just update the packaging and maybe do what they did with limited edition versions of the 2015 Watery Essences—a "cooling" edition and a rose-scented one—without major changes to the consistencies or finishes? Why did they have to alter everything that made the 2015 Watery line so great? WHY?!?!
For the morbidly curious, here's Tracy's translation of the ingredients for the 2017 Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Gel.
2017 Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence ingredients: Water, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Lauryl Methacrylate/Sodium Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Titanium Dioxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Xylitol, Dextrin Palmitate, Hydrated Silica, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glyceryl Stearate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, C4-14 Perfluoroalkylethoxy Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearic acid, Agar, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Isoceteth-20, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Aminomethyl propanol, Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Glutamic Acid, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum, Maltose, Butylene Glycol, Propylene glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Royal Jelly Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, EDTA 2Na, BHT, Fragrance
CosDNA analysis
Verdict: 2/5. I won't repurchase until I hear of another reformulation that brings back the old formulas.
The reformulations of the Biore "Watery" sunscreens sent me on a renewed quest for a holy grail sunscreen. As we know, quests involve both disasters and triumphs. Which brings us to the final item on this list.
The Terrible: Shiseido Senka Mineral Water UV Gel
This is it. This is the sunscreen that picked a fight with my face and won. My face is usually pretty tough, but this sunscreen had it crying uncle.
I believe actual tears leaked out at some point.
I reviewed the Senka Mineral Water UV Gel some time ago on Instagram, but even if you saw that post, believe me—it got worse from there.
It didn't have to end up like this (or did it?). The Mineral Water UV Gel has a lot going for it. It's dirt cheap. It leaves a nice naturally satiny finish with no white cast whatsoever. It dries quickly, sets well, and doesn't pill up under my makeup. And, of course, it provides strong protection against UVA and UVB radiation.
Unfortunately, this sunscreen contains more alcohol than me after a KBBQ night with my coworkers. My liver might handle it, but my face couldn't. It left my skin feeling dry and tight by the end of each day, and after about a week, I started flaking and peeling in some areas. As my skin became more compromised, the Mineral Water UV Gel stung when I applied it in the morning.
Still, even after I posted my Instareview, I had some left to finish and no other options around, so I slathered on heavier moisturizer in the morning and tried to carry on. That was about the dumbest thing I've done all year. After another week, my skin flared up into an actual irritation rash. Tiny itchy angry bumps along my jawline, my ears(!!!!!), and around my mouth threatened to creep onto my cheeks and forehead.
The rash convinced me to finally give this crap up and order a couple more tubes of my favorite A'Pieu sunscreen to hold me over until the next viable candidate surfaced, but by then, it was too late for my skin. I spent the next several weeks nursing my face back to bump-free health. (That Earth’s Recipe toner was a key part of the recovery process.)
I'm not the only one to have suffered a reaction from this terrible sunscreen (which, why couldn't this one have gone through a dramatic reformulation?). All the way back in 2014, my good friend and fellow Beautytap editor Coco Park experienced a reaction she attributed to a combination of lupus and the alcohol in the product. Coco was more circumspect than I'll be. I don't have lupus and am willing to entirely blame this sunscreen, whether the alcohol content or something else caused it. This sunscreen is pretty much the worst.
Shiseido Senka Mineral Water UV Gel ingredients (per CosDNA): Cyclomethicone, water, isododecane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, alcohol, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, octocrylene, polysilicone-15, zinc oxide, PPG-17, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sucrose tetrastearate triacetate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, aminomethyl propanediol, sodium chloride, calcium chloride, talc, dimethicone, glycerin, isostearic acid, triethoxycaprylylsilane, trisodium EDTA, orange, BHT
Want to give it a shot? I won't ask why, but here's an Amazon link for a pack of 2*. As for me, I give it a 1/5 and will never ever ever let this get anywhere near me again.
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